Thai cooking made simple: Panaeng Curry


Since it is phonetically transcribed from Thai, the name of this dish is written in many different ways: Panaeng, Phanaeng, Panang, Penang, Peneng, Penaeng. They all refer to the same dish: A coconut milk based dry curry, with a hint of peanuts. It can be prepared with pork, beef, chicken, duck, large shrimps or tofu for the vegetarians. I prefer the pork or beef version, since those seem to team best with the taste of the curry. Compared to other Thai curries, Panaeng curry is rather mild, one of the reasons most people like this curry so much.

The preparation itself is actually quite simple and does not take very long at all. You spend most of your time shopping for the right ingredients and chopping the ingredients up.

If you have an Asian supermarket or Toko in the neighbourhood, buy your Thai ingredients there, instead of your regular supermarket. Most supermarkets stock a range of Asian ingredients, but the quality is mediocre and the price a lot higher. But still a good alternative if a specialized store is too far away.


Ingredients (for 2-3 pers.):

  • 200 ml of coconut milk
  • 2 tablespoons of Panaeng curry paste
  • 2 tablespoons of fish sauce
  • 2 tablespoons of palm sugar ( or white or brown sugar)
  • 6 kafir lime leaves


  • 1 tablespoon of stir-fry oil (sunflower, rapeseed or soy-bean oil)
  • 400 gr pork or beef loin, cut into strips
  • one red bell pepper
  • one onion
  • a handful of peanuts, roasted and chopped

About the Thai ingredients:

Panaeng curry paste is a thick orange paste, sold in a bag, a cup or a jar. After opening it can be stored for several months in a closed container in the refrigerator. The curry paste can be made at home, but even most Thais buy it in the store. The curry paste is made of onions, peppers, coriander, garlic, kafir lime, lemon grass and shrimp paste. This explains the rich taste of the dish.

Coconut milk: coconut milk for cooking is what we would describe as coconut cream. It is not the watery coconut milk found in the coconut, but a thick cream made of the coconut flesh. It has the texture of a thick cream as well as its high calorie count. It softens the spiciness of the curry paste.

Fish sauce is a basic ingredient of all Thai food. It takes the place of salt but cannot not simply be replaced by salt. They sell it in small bottles and it can be kept for many months in the refrigerator after opening. You can use it in all your other wok dishes instead of salt.


Thais often replace sugar with palm sugar. But you can just as well use regular sugar, the taste will be the same.

One ingredient that cannot be replaced are the kafir lime leaves. Fresh they are often sold in a large pack and do not keep very long. Most Asian supermarkets also sell them deep frozen, which is a great alternative. You can keep them in the freezer like for ever, and just take out a few leaves when needed. They defrost immediately, and then release this most wonderful citrus smell! It is these kinds of herbs that make Thai food so wonderful! Do not buy the dried version, those have lost all of their aroma and colour .

Since all Thai ingredients can be kept for a long time, you just have to pass by the Asian store once or twice a year! One more good reason to get your ass over there. And it will feel like travelling abroad without having to book a flight.


All other ingredients can be found in your regular supermarket. You can buy pre roasted peanuts, but since those are often salted too, I usually roast them myself. (And it is a lot cheaper). Just toss the peeled peanuts in a non-stick pan over a high heat, and stay with it. It takes a while before the peanuts colour, but once they do, you better take them of the heat immediately because they burn just as quickly. Do not touch them if you do not want to burn your fingers. Let them cool of on a plate. Once cooled, you can chop them in a mortar or an electric grinder. Make sure not too grind them to dust. (You can use the same technique to roast other nuts like pine nuts or cashew nuts, great addition to salads in summer!)

For the fresh ingredients:


Peel the onion and cut it in to strips, peel the bell pepper with a vegetable peeler and also cut it in to strips. Cut the meat in to bit size strips. Cut the kafir lime leaves in to very fine strips.

Take 200 ml of coconut cream and mix it together with two tablespoons of fish sauce.

Now you are ready to prepare the dish. Cook white (jasmin) rice to serve with the curry. The Panaeng curry only takes about 10 minutes to prepare!

Take a large wok pan, skillet or frying pan, whatever you have available at home. Pour the cooking oil in the pan, turn up the heat and add two tablespoons of Panaeng curry paste. Sautée the curry paste, making sure not to burn it. It is perfectly normal if the oil separates from the curry paste. Then add the meat strips and let them fry a bit in the curry paste. Add the coconut mixture, and stir until the curry paste is dissolved in the coconut sauce. Then add the onion and bell pepper strips, sugar, and half of the peanuts and lime leaves. Let it all cook on a lowered heat until the meat is done, while stirring regularly. This only takes about 5 minutes.

Pour the (wonderfully smelling) curry in a serving bowl and top with the rest of the peanuts, lime leaves and some coconut cream. Serve with cooked white Thai rice.


(If the curry is too spicy to your taste you can add more sugar, or reduce the amount of curry paste. But if you put too little curry paste you will  lose a lot of the flavour!)


One advice. If you would ever invite Thai friends at home, do not cook Thai food! Cook something else; a family recipe or a typical regional dish. Thai people are notoriously critical when it comes to their National dishes, especially when prepared by non-Thais! (I speak from experience)


Cocktails with homemade limoncello


We still had a batch of our own made limoncello left. With Christmas coming up we decided to use it for a cocktail to start our family dinner. We did some research and came up with these two varieties that are liked by most.


Limoncello Fizz: Like a gin fizz but sweeter and more festive.

You need:

Limoncello – 30 ml
Prosecco (or cava, or cremant or champagne)
Slice of lemon to garnish

Use a nice champagne glass, pour one small jigger (25 or 30 ml) of limoncello in the glass and fill up with prosecco or champagne. Use a slice of lemon or lime to garnish the glass.


Yellow cab: A long drink variety on a Tom Collins. Also very refreshing in summer. If you like it less sweet, use soda instead of 7up.

You need:

Limoncello 30 ml
Gin 30 ml
Little bit of freshly squeezed lemon juice
A sprig of mint

Take a long drink glass or a large wine glass. Squeeze some lemon juice on the bottom of the glass. Pour one jigger (30 ml) of gin and the one jigger (30 ml) of limoncello in the glass and stir with a bar spoon. Top up with 7 up, then add ice cubes to the glass. Garnish with a sprig of fresh mint. Add a straw and stirrer. If you like it stronger use 50 ml of gin and limoncello each.

For a recipe of homemade limoncello read: Homemade golden limoncello

New York, New York!

Next trip: New York. This blog is also a bit of an experiment in which Neil and me try to merge our different writing styles. I let him edit my text and ad his own text to some of the pictures. So don’t get confused by it. Anyway, for me this the first time in the United States of America. Our first hassle is to get through the strict security at the airport and then we’re off for an 8 hour flight. The flight is great, and the hours pass a lot faster than expected, with in-flight movies, plenty of food and drinks, a little bit of sleep and no turbulence. We even land early!


New York New York the city so great they named it twice.
I think I actually understood it the first time. Then again, can one really understand this city? I have been here several times now, and understood very little. Maybe because I always travelled here for business, not for fun.Work, work and work. But that too, is New York, All work, not much play. My American colleagues have an average of two weeks holidays per year, I have five, the French have eight! This time, I’m here to relax, so let the good times roll…

First time in America, you tend to look for things big or bigger than in Europe. First thing I notice: the airport toilets are bigger! Bigger seats, spacier cabins, and constant automatic flushing, wasting huge amounts of water!

We have to choose between train or taxi, and go for the taxi. Both options are clearly signalled. A taxi ride from Kennedy airport to Prospect Park in Brooklyn, where we stay at the Best Western Plus Prospect Park hotel, sets us back 62 dollar ( because the taxi driver took the long way on the Belt road via Coney Island) so with the tip it costs us 70 dollar. A taxi from the hotel costs 55 dollar flat, so I think we will do that for the return trip to the airport. We check in and are pleased with the comfortable room. This is good value for the price we pay. (760 dollars for 4 nights and two persons, all included: state tax and city tax) You can only check in from 3 pm so we have to wait a little but there is free coffee and tea all day from the breakfast room ( and a coffee maker in the room as well). After unpacking and refreshing, we still have the whole afternoon ahead of us and decide to head for the Brooklyn bridge. We buy a subway card for 9 dollars, which gives you three rides and some change ( a ride costs 2,75). We get out at High street and walk towards Brooklyn bridge park. The sight of the New York skyline and the humongous bridge is really overwhelming and gives us a great first impression of New York. As a bonus the clouds break and the sun comes out! We order a home-made cranberry lemonade at the Brooklyn bridge garden bar and, feeling some hunger pangs, we head for a pizza from Grimaldi’s, a mere 50 m further on. Grimaldi is famous in Brooklyn for their coal brick oven fresh baked pizza’s. You can choose between a small (1-2 persons) or large (3-4 persons) tomato or white pizza, (14 dollar for a small regular pizza, 16 dollar for a large), and choose extra toppings for 1,2 or 4 dollars. We go for the small tomato pizza (tomato, mozzarella and basilicum) and extra peppers, mushroom and anchovies. The pizza’s are indeed very good, and really crispy and a small pizza is really plenty enough for two ‘normal’ eaters. After the dinner we climb onto the Brooklyn bridge. The sights from the bridge are impressive, especially with the sun setting behind the skyline of New York. You walk above the traffic, on the right side you see the other two bridges (Manhattan and Williamsburg bridge), on the left side stands the Statue of Liberty. We take lots of pictures, and then, getting really tired after this very long day (by now it is already the wee hours in Europe), head back to our hotel for a long refreshing sleep.

On day two we take the hotel breakfast which is included in the room rate, which is really OK considering the hotel level. ( coffee, tea, juice, cereals, eggs and bacon, yoghurt, different breads, croissants and pastries, fresh waffles and apples !)

We take the subway into Manhattan, and since the R line has a stop just in front of ground zero, we start with a visit of the 9/11 memorial site, where the new WTC tower is just finished. ( the site is designed by Libeskind). The two memorial pools with the names of the victims around are truly impressive and very symbolic, with the the water on top velvety like silk, then shredding into thin strips going down, and disappearing in a deep black hole with no visible bottom. It feels a lot like the two towers disintegrating into “nothingness”. Only one tree survived on the site and it has been nourished back, and now stands proudly back on the square, renamed “the survivor” tree and it is splendid in its full bloom. The new glass tower, the “Freedom tower” that is just finished, will only open on May 29th 2015. There will be an observatory (“One World observatory”) in it, and a lift going up, projecting the development of the New York skyline, from its start in 1600 up to today, the 9/11 attacks included. Next to the memorial they are constructing a new train hub (PATH station), with a futuristic space-like station on top. The relentless construction noise disturbs the serenity of the deeply moving experience a little. But then, this is New York, you can not expect not to hear noise.



Walking on “Ground Zero” is an experience that is more than just emotional. Everybody remembers 9/11 and where they were that fateful moment. I was in Vietnam, watching the whole thing on CNN from my hotel room, glued on my TV set the whole night. And like everybody, I knew that the world had changed that very moment. But what I couldn’t know then was that, fifteen years later, I would stand on that very same spot, in awe and admiration for how the Americans have turned their defeat into a victory. Sadam Hussein is death, Al Qaida is old news, the Americans have a black president and their popularity has soured again, from an all time low under the Bush administration. And the new world Trade tower, from the mind of a Jewish architect no less, stands erect like a huge swollen fallus towering over the city and showing ‘the other side’ an ‘up yours’ that can not be misunderstood.

We then walk into the financial district, and it strikes us how close the towers are from Wall street. Al Qaida had really hit New York in the heart. We walk past the Trinity church and say hello to the Wall street’s raging bull and Vera gently carresses its shiny brass testicules for good (financial) luck (and also for fun, I guess :-). We take a picture in front of the New York Stock exchange in Wall Street, hop into Tiffany’s&Co to gawk at the diamond rings. We say ‘hi’ to George Washington in front of the Federal states’ building, turn into William’s street, and then into Pearl street. The weather is just gorgeous and the patrons have put the terrasses out, to the delight of the Financial district yuppies who are enjoying their lunch in the sunshine. Non-yuppies we are, yet join them at ‘Zigolinis’ on Coenties Slip. The shrimp salad is delicious but the price of the beer is a bummer. A whopping eight dollars for a simple draft! You can also take out food from Zigolinis deli and sit down at one the tables set out on the street in front. (We are puzzled also by the neighbours at our table, who also have a shrimp salad, but eat only the shrimps, leaving the lettuce for decoration!).

Passing the Vietnam war memorial we walk in to Battery park, from where you can take the Staten Island ferry ( if you want to get a closer look at the statue of Liberty). That Ferry is free! We will visit Lady Liberty later, but first take the metro instead in the direction of Chelsea and get off on 14th street, close to the new Withney museum, to enjoy a walk on the high line track. The high line is an old converted train track, used to bring goods into the city, at the start of the last century. The rail line passes big packhouses that are now converted into apartments. The high line is like an elongated roof garden, a beautiful urban park, with chairs and benches and scattered works of art. (one by a Belgian artist!) Close to the start (at Gansevoort street), just above Chelsea market, you can stop for an ice-cream or a coffee. With the hot weather we go for the ice-cream from L’Arte Del Gelato ( not cheap at 5 dollars for a small cup) but ‘oh’ so delicious! You can descend back to street level by stairs or lift at several places on the track, but we walk all the way to the end. Unfortunately, the last part that will bring the visitors close to the Hudson river, is still under construction. We have some time to burn before our scheduled sailing trip to the Statue of Liberty (Oh Yes, we like to do things in style!), so we walk to Madison square gardens (really nothing of interest there) and take the metro to the Flatiron building ( hardly anything else of interest besides the Flatiron itself). We take a peek inside the Empire State Building and also this is a bit disappointing. (yeah, OK it is a nice art-deco interior, but No King Kong) so we go for a coffee at ‘Gregorys coffee’.

We lounge a while but suddenly realize that time has flown, and hurry back into the subway to get to the Chelsea piers. The rush hour causes further delays on the subway train and in the end we really have to make a run for it, to get to pier 62 in time to board the ‘Adirondeck’, a beautiful wooden Schooner sailboat (Classic Harbour line) for a two hours sunset sail trip towards the Statue of Liberty. It is still early in season and the boat is only half booked. We have ample space on deck and feel like kings and queens. They serve three rounds of drinks (soft, beer, wine, sparkles) and with a steel blue sky and a gentle steady breeze, the weather could not be more perfect!

After leaving the harbour the engines are killed, and the boat majestically sails towards the enigmatic statue, while slowly the sun sets and the Manhattan skyline turns on a thousand lights. I can recommend the trip to anyone, there is no better way to greet the Statue of Liberty and the New York skyline! It is simply magical.



Vera’s birthday present was the ultimate, my highlight supreme. She had chosen a sunladen day, with a nice breeze and a sky of the bluest lapus lazuli, to embark us on a double mast Schooner upon the Hudson river towards lady Liberty herself.


Off we sailed, five and half knots in a gentle breeze, passing Staten island and Ellis island and marvel at the sights of lady liberty quickly approaching at stern side. I must have shot over two hundred pictures, Manhattan in full view, the setting sun blasting like fire in its thousand windows. A Pinot Grigio in one hand, squeezing Vera’s leg with my other. It was a perfect day and I was perfectly happy, there and then.

We duck into the metro again, this time to Broadway, Central Park side, and walk towards Times Square, which you have to see after dark. Honestly, to me it is not really a highlight of our visit. Just a bunch of huge billboards and people gawking at huge screens like rabbits staring into the oncoming lights of a truck.

We go for a bite and try 46th street and have trouble finding an inviting enough place to eat, even if the street is lined with restaurants. This was not our idea of a place called ‘Hell’s Kitchen’. We eventually enter “Yum Yum” at the end of the street, a Thai restaurant. The food was good and not pricey, so if you are like us and can see past boasting neon-lights and loud luring titles, and if you like Asian, try the Yum Yum, it is Yummie!
By now, jet lag really kicking in, we are really cooked too, and we half fall asleep on the metro back to the hotel,
It has been a long and great day!

The third day starts with sleeping in, the hotels’ breakfast and then the R line to 57th street just down from Central Park. We want to rent a bike for a sportive afternoon rolling through the park, as a welcome alternative to all the walking. Well, I do not understand how mayor Bloomberg wants to promote cycling if renting a bike sets you back 14 dollars an hour!! Even the citi-bikes seem cheap at 10 dollar for 24 hours, but not if you can only drive them for strolls of 30 minutes max., every ride that is longer costs you 4 dollar for 30 minutes extra and 9 dollars for an hour extra. The metro and even a taxi suddenly seem dirt cheap!


Central Park. I sigh: Time changes all things. I see endless pastures and forest that take days to cross, I see Indians, on foot, on horseback chasing deer. I blink my eyes and what remains is a park where you are charged 14$ an hour for a bike ride.
I see crystal lakes that date back to the last ice age, the melting snow overflowing into the Hudson. I see beavers dams and a family of Grizzly’s scooping giant salmon from the falls. Eagles soar the sky. I blink again and see an artificial tortoise pond, and joggers showing off their stupidly blown up pectorals and all that remains of the ice age are ice cream vendors, vending ice cream.


Specks of dust, are we, within the blink of an eye turned back into nothingness.

So we walk again, but not through the whole of Central Park, that would kill us. We decide to see only the lower third, with the fountain, the lakes, Loeb’s boathouse, the castle, and of course the strawberry fields, in remembrance of John Lennon. How tranquil the park is, so busy it becomes at Strawberry fields and the Dakota building ( where John Lennon was shot in front of his house and where Yoko Ono still lives). The building is covered in scaffolding, so not much to see here either.


Imagine all the people.
I can’t ‘imagine’ John would be amused. I also don’t think John worries much whether he is remembered this way. Yoko Ono on the other hand probably has a field day with this.

Want some quiet? Follow us and stroll towards the Lincoln center, (via 64th St.). The centre’s square is a haven of tranquility, where it is wonderful to while some hours away reading, talking, eating or drinking something. Chairs and benches are plenty available. Do not forget to glimpse at the huge Chagall paintings at the windows of the Metropolitan opera house! We enjoy another L’Arte Del Gelato ice cream and an Illy coffee.


So, here we are, sitting in the shade. Lincoln Center and its square are really cool! We enjoy a cappuccino and take it all in. It’s been a magic couple of days so far. I’m forever in Vera’s debt. She’s prepared this trip to so much detail that it seems to have my personal tour-guide right next to me. Much more than this, I love her for just being here and sharing this beautiful experience with with me.

Then it is time to ‘head for the MET’, a real art institution not only in New York but worldwide! Too bad that the rooftop garden café only opens next week, we miss out on the great view over Central Park!
Important note: the entrance fee is what you choose to donate! The ticket price of 25 dollars, as advertised, is just the ‘recommended’ entry fee! In reality you can get in for as little as 1 dollar. But of course, one does not want to be that stingy when donating to this great temple of art so I give the cashier 20 dollar for two adults and she politely asks if I want change. I gracefully decline. So we get in for 10 dollar a head, a very fair price, and proud of ourselves, we decide to give them back the 30 dollars we saved out by enjoying cocktails in the grand hall balcony bar, where live classical music is performed on Friday evenings, when the museum stays open until 9 Pm. This way, the MET gets our money and we enjoy cocktails and a concert. Then we stroll into the museum. One advice: do not try to see it all! Choose wisely, and go for one or two periods, it will be hours worth.

We first visit the European painters: with works by Picasso, Degas, Monet, Van Gogh, Gauguin, Toulouse-Lautrec, …. , and then head for the Egyptian section, to see the beautiful tomb, the many statues, with two wooden ones dating back more than 4000 years! Then we descend to the very impressive Temple of Dendur, set in the Sackler Wing, a large hall. The temple reflects into the large pool in front of it. Finally, we visit the Chinese garden. Believe me, it is enough to satisfy your eyes and mind for a day. Being hungry and not wanting to wander off too far of, we eat a slice of pizza and a panini at ‘Don Filippo’s’ on Lexington Av.
Tired but very pleased, we return for a refreshing sleep.


The Americans love to build temples. The Metropolitan is a temple for art. A temple with temples inside it. I get goosebumps entering the magnificent room that houses the Nubian temple of Dendur. close to 4000 years old, this marvel of Egyptian art was literally rescued from certain oblivian and annihilation by the rising waters from the Assuan Dam.

But even then, looking at the majestic sfinx, admiring the mystic hieroglyphs on the temple walls, I can’t help but think that an Egyptian temple belongs in an Egyptian desert. That, for me is the essential difference between a museum and a library. A museum is an artificial place. It is like a zoo, a place where rare and important pieces are collected to protect it from destruction or from oblivion. A library is entirely different. A library is the natural habitat for books. Books belong in it. They need to be there. The original copy belongs to the author, but the printed version has a home in the library, archived according to genre, language, topic or whatever, but identified and given a place in the world of words that we – humans – create to instruct ourselves, to evolve, to make us immortal.

Day four: We slept wel but now we are tired of the lack of diversity at the hotel breakfast, so we head out to ‘Junior’s’ at the De Kalb subway stop in Brooklyn, to have the famous cheese cake as breakfast together with a very large cappuccino. Yummie,…

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Junior’s, it doesn’t get more American than this. No wonder that both Clinton and Obama came through this diner on their election campaigns. Junior’s started out as a bakery from the Jewish immigrants, the Rosen’s, who were clever enough not to limit themselves to Kosher meals. It explains everything. Even if the current patrons and guests are more Afro American and of Latino origin, the most Jewish of Jewish pastries is still very prominent on display. Gorgeous creamy cheesecakes. I tried the black-forest variety, but had to agree with Vera that nothing can beat the unadultered pure original version.

We take the metro to Bryant Park, a really small cosy park behind the National library. The library itself is protected by two lions, ‘Patience’ and ‘Fortitude’. The library is housed in a beautiful Beaux-Art building with beautiful reading rooms. The ‘Rose Main Reading room’ and the ‘Public Catalogue’ room are unfortunately closed for renovations, so we miss those. Instead we visit the DeWitt room which is like smaller version of the Rose room but without the ceilings. Take a stroll through the building, but make sure to be quiet when entering the different rooms, it is still a library after all!



I love libraries. A library is like a temple. Don’t care if that sound corny. I told Vera today, walking down the magnificent corridors of the National library of New York, learning about the generous financial support of Mr Carnegie, who understood that the greatness of a people is in direct correlation to the books on their library shelves. I told her that I loved libraries. it was a home for books. A temple for books.

Next is the Grand Central terminal. Also a wonderful building, imposing, all marble and copper fixtures, a beautiful ceiling and a great clock in the middle. We go downstairs for a visit to the Central oyster bar. Even if you do not like oysters, go in, take a seat and order something, they have other seafood too, and a great wine list. The atmosphere is great, and the oysters are delicious. Leaving the oyster bar we see a man in the first corner on the left, his nose pressed against the wall as if he is a punished boy. It looks a bit weird, but when he steps away, all smiles, and walks towards his wife who is standing in the opposite corner. Then we realize one can talk to each other from one corner to the other, with the sounds transmitted over the arches like a phone. Hilarious! Try it when you are there, after us a father did the same with his daughter, and two girl friends were waiting for them to finish. Great for romantic conversations with your lover! ( it will make your day ) It is called the Whispering gallery!

A bit further is the Chrysler building, just hop in to see the lobby (we forgot actually).
Hop on the Subway, all the way up North of Manhattan to see ‘The Cloisters’, the entrance fee is included in your MET entrance ticket. Take the express line up to the Cloisters, since it is quite an end away. When you get of you have to walk through Fort Tryon park, you see the Washington bridge over the Hudson on the left.


The Cloisters are an European architectural nightmare I am sure, because a mix of Gothic with Roman styles, using parts from churches and cloisters from France, Spain, Italy and putting them all together in one building, not following the typical cross pattern used in original European churches, and mixing artefacts from different European countries with dates from the 9th or 10th Century with others dating many centuries later. Brrr! But then again,why not? The result is really interesting and the Americans just love it! They especially love the unicorn tapestries (woven in Brussels). One lady said she was disappointed that the tapestries are so sad, there was blood everywhere and the unicorn died in the end. (Yep, lady, that was before Disney!)

There is a pretty medieval garden with medicinal plants. It is worth the trip all the way up North. Our last destination of the day is Brooklyn, where we have a famous ShakeShack hamburger ( but to be honest I do not understand what the hype is all about), and live music at BAM café ( Brooklyn Academy of Music). We take a drink and a snack (cheeseplatter) at the café because we are a bit early. Most people arrive at 8:30 for the concert at 9 Pm.
At 9:30 pm, 5J Barrow starts their gig. They were selected best band of Manhattan in 2014 and named best band of New York. They play folk with an Indie twist, and are really good. We enjoyed this end of our day!

Our last day starts with packing, checking out and ordering a hotel cab to the airport for that afternoon. A cab to or from the airport is pretty expensive, at 50 to 60 dollars a ride from JFK to Brooklyn. It takes between 45 minutes and one hour (outside of the peek hours)
It is mother’s day and being in NY we do as the New Yorker does: we head out for a breakfast at Junior’s, where they serve a special holiday breakfast: coffee or tea, fresh juice of choice, breads and pastries and eggs, French toast, blini’s or omelette of your choice. It tastes a lot better than the bland breakfast at the hotel ( but then again, we realize that we are spoiled brats!).


We visited Junior’s again for a nice brunch, on Sunday May 10th, mothersday. Well, I admit, these brothers and sisters do understand the art of celebrating mom. Prepped up in their Sunday’s best, they chaperone their proud mother, her face shining and flowers in her arms, through the isles and to their special table. Large plates with pastries, sandwich bread, followed by fried eggs, bacon, or delicious blinis, French toast, apple crumble and other richness ensure an unforgettable family Sunday to all.

We head out to Manhattan for the last time and take the express train from De Kalb station, which passes over Manhattan bridge and gives you a great view of Brooklyn bridge and the NY skyline. We enter the Guggenheim, and are a bit disappointed with the building. We don’t visit it because the ramps are closed for repair.

So out for some last minute shopping at Fifth av. We take a closer look at the diamond rings in Tiffany&Co (Yes mam, this ring is 2.5 carats, just under 100.000 dollars, Don’t worry mam, I can make it fit your thin long fingers…) For the affecionado’s, there is also a Bloomingdales ( with beautifully decorated windows), with all the big names as Gucci, Louis Vuitton and there is also A&F, ( renamed by my husband to “Applecrumble and Fudge”). We head for “Nike-town” to buy some sneakers. Unfortunately they were out of the ones I fancied in my shoe size. But more than that I am disappointed in the rude way we are treated here, I will not come again Nike! (I may however try to buy them online!). We drink a refreshing glass of Chardonnay at the bar of Brio nyc, at 61st and Lexington, before heading back to the hotel, in the cab, to the airport, on the plane and back home.

I more or less figured out the Subway system of New York: you can buy single tickets for 3 dollar a ride, or buy a metro card which you can use with more than one person at 9 dollar plus one dollar for the card. With this card you pay 2,75 a ride. A metro card for 31 dollar for 7 days per person, will be the cheapest option if you stay several days, especially if you are staying outside of down-town Manhattan. We used the metro quite intensively, because distances are quite big. On most lines, you have local and express lines, local lines stop at each stop, express lines not, but move a lot faster if you have to cover a large distance (for instance from down-town Manhattan to Brooklyn, the Bronx, Harlem or Queens). On the lines Q, R and N, Q is the express line, on the lines 4,5 and 6, 5 is the express line.

Biking in New York: Although New York puts a lot of effort in promoting the use of bikes in the city, renting a bike is expensive! With ‘Bike and roll’ it costs 14 dollars an hour! And the city bikes are only a cheapest alternative if you make stretches of no more than 30 minutes at a time… If you have a New York pass a bike in included for 24 hours, in that case it is a good option. But as usual, there were not enough attractions for us that we want to visit to take the New York pass. (we do not like a hop on hop off bus and do not visit Tussaud’s and the likes… )

Many things are bigger and louder in New York: toilet seats, drinks, some people, skyscrapers, shops, and unfortunately also your bills! Huge amounts of tap water is wasted in showers ( you cannot adjust the amount of water flowing) and toilets ( in some toilets they flush at your every move). And there is a lot of noise in the streets and subway systems, people talk loud, and to get above all the other noise the ambulance and fire department sirens are deafening! What we saw very little is fruit and vegetables, only in the salad, and the freshly pressed orange juice, and some vegetables between my hamburger. Oh yeah, and the pizza, because pizza is a vegetable in the US. (No Joke, in Alabama one managed to get subsidies for pizza’s for school lunches. After all, pizza’s are made with tomato sauce on it!) But then again, mostly things are just like home, so don’t be scared, visiting New York is a great experience.

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Last day in New York. Time for some shopping. Dollars change hands very fast in this city that never sleeps. Soon enough it will be time to go home and make some new ones. That is exactly what America is all about. It is the only place in the world where you can not earn’ money but have to ‘make’ it.

Frituur René


11 March 2015

Frituur René, pronounced with the guttural Brussels’ idiome you would expect in a bistrot in the heart of Anderlecht. It could be an alternative setting for an episode of ‘Allo-Allo’ and I could hear you tell me: “Listen carefully, I will zay this only onze!”

Spring gives its best early efforts, with streaks of blue and smudges of orange dotting the evening sky, with youngsters noisily showing off on the square, with a Pakistani hawker trying to sell us a rose (no, don’t get closer, she’s allergic to flowers! He doesn’t believe me, but scurries off just the same.)

I’ll buy you flowers, dear, but on my terms, not his.

We get a window table, and the smoky campfire fumes from the outside woodburner tickles our nostrils. Vera is thrown into a timewarp, back to her grandma’s farmhouse, where again she warms her feet to the kitchen stove while grandma stirs the pot of potato peels. Potato peels for the pigs, and hot creamy buttermilk pudding for the kids. The experience is so powerful she swears she can right here, right now, smell that steamy broth damping into the cold winter morning in her granny’s kitchen.

Pure bliss.

So too the shrimp croquettes and the sole-meuniere, served bistrot style, with a glass of deliciously sweet white wine.
But what is really to die for, are the french fries with freshly whipped mayonaise. I know, it doesn’t come more Belgian than that, but then again, Belgians we are. These days, fries all taste and look the same, even in ‘Belgique’. Many restaurants serve them like if they all came straight from a a Mc Do from around the corner. Thinly frenched, unisize and unitaste matchsticks. (Ah, you thought “french fries” had to do with ‘France’ the country? Burst that bubble, the name comes from the verb ‘to french’ i.e. ‘to slice up’ and there ain’t much French about the the whole affair.)

René’s fries: another time-warp. Back to the ox-fat kettle, to when and where fries took up the distinct flavor of the fat, but still kept the taste of the potatoes too.

Vera reminisces about her time on the family farm. I heard it all a hundred times over, but still have to smile, and laugh out loud when I see her in my mind’s eye, a little girl clinging on to the steering wheel while her aunt screams to her sons: ” There’s  a tractor on the loose! It’s hurtling down into the yard with no-one on it!”

Memories like priceless gems. Vera keeps them for special occasions, but when she opens that box, she wears them proud. And then her eyes sparkle like sapphires, and then her cheeks glow up into a ruby blush. And then again, I see that girl I know so well.

Cudo’s to Frituur René. A gem in Anderlecht.

Wrap it up!

She had a worried frown on her forehead. ‘What are we doing to this planet!?’ she muttered.

“What are we doing to it?” I asked. “We are smothering it!” Her eyes grew big. “In plastics! Last year, we have dumped eight million tons of plastic in the sea!”

“Eight million tons is a lot indeed!” I nodded.

“And the worst part of the story is that most of it is not even visible. It sinks to the sea, then it degrades into microscopic particles and then it becomes part of circle of life. Fish gobble it up with the plankton they feed on and in the end, we eat the fish and our own plastics with it.

“You reap what you sow.” I sighed. Now I’m frowning too. “What can we do about it?” I ask her. “Can we do anything?”
She shrugged helplessly: “I guess not. We can start to use less plastics. But I thought we were already doing that, recycling and all. We could ask others to use less plastics too. But how to go about that? Most of these plastics are produced and used in Asia. We can’t even influence our neighbour’s behaviour, what influence can we have on Chinese consumers? We produce over 200 million ton of plastic every year!”

“Two hundred million thousand kilo’s of plastic, every year again…” I tried to imagine the number in my head, but my head was too small for such a big number. When things become bigger than our heads, we tend to either not believe them, or to ignore them because we can’t grasp them anyway.

I remember the days that we both went scubadiving in Indonesia and in Thailand. The saphire blue sea in Malaysia, pristine beaches with hardly a snippet of plastic in sight. My nephew told me a rather different story when he last visited Mindanao in North Sulawesi. I don’t believe I could stomach to see the massive pollution he reportedly observed there. “There is no way we can stop this,” I must concede, “but just think how incredible it would be if we could just create that little bit of awareness, if we could help just a little bit, a little push in the right direction…wouldn’t that be a great achievement already?”

“You’re dreaming,” she said. “But it is not as if I wouldn’t want to do something. I would love to do something. But what?” She wheeled her arms in front of her face. “How to make a difference?”

I could imagine hundreds of people read the same article on plastics, or a few thousands of people watch a documentary about it. And they would all feel just like we do right now. Outraged and helpless. And I realise that it wouldn’t change a thing. Even if you would reach a hundred thousand people, or a million, it wouldn’t make a difference. Because they would all be just as hopelessly dependent on these plastics for their everyday life as we are ourselves. We type these messages on plastic keyboards, that sit on a plastic table, connected to plastic cables into a plastic electric socket, while seated in plastic chairs on plastic floors in plastic houses. Of course we will be killed by plastics. Our planet is smothered in it. This is utterly hopeless!

I became very gloomy now. So this is how we will end? Plastinated corpses, like those in Von Hagen’s Körperwelten beautiful but imagesmacabre displays? So, now we better become vegetarians, and then we better stop drinking water, and finally we can’t eat anything anymore that is microfiltered and sterilized?  A gloom picture indeed.

But…is there nothing that can be done? We are able to destroy the world, but are we also able to save it from ourselves? We are capable of the most unimaginable atrocities, but we have also built cathedrals, we have landed people on the moon and little space crafts on speeding comets,  we have written music for angels and we have saved people from terrible diseases.

We have invented plastics and we can not dis-invent it. So the only way forward is in finding an innovative solution.

Can we now really not invent something to save us from plastics?  Whilst I have no idea about the answer, I simply refuse to think that there is no positive answer to this question.

And this is probably also how we should think about all these other gloomy things that have grown bigger than our heads. We have brains, let’s use them in a positive way.

“What if,” I started again, “we would not try to raise awareness about the problems surrounding us, but on the contrary, raise awareness about where possible solutions are to these problems?”

She smiled, leaned over and gave me a kiss. “And what if you and I would give that idea a deeper thought, with a nice cup of champagne, under our warm eiderdown blanket?” she whispered.

And we didn’t solve any questions that night and we didn’t save the planet.

But it made us think, and that is a start.


Sud-Food of Italy, Brugge

It has been a while since we tried a new restaurant in Bruges, so today we headed to the city centre to have lunch. We had booked a table for two in the small but cosy deli annex restaurant Sud (they only have 6 tables), with an Italian chef from Puglia in the kitchen. We chose the table in the back with a view of the garden and of the kitchen. The table was a bit wobbly, and the noises of the kitchen were a bit disturbing but not too much. They serve a daily changing set lunch menu: one starter and one main course, following the seasons, with mostly organic ingredients straight from Puglia, and home-made pastas. The menu costs 26 euro for both courses or 18 euro if you only take the main course. We took an excellent white wine by the glass from Puglia and some sparkling water. We received some small paprika’s stuffed with olives and anchovy, and small taralli with white wine as appetizers. Taralli’s look like mini bagels but with a whole different taste. I think I will look up the recipe and try to make them at home.


As a first course we recieved seabass in pork bacon, in a sauce of potatoes and lemon, with fresh mozzarella from Puglia. It looked great and tasted just as good. They use fresh wholesome ingredients, and the appetizer was really original, a refreshing change from the usual standards served in most restaurants. The main course was home-made paccheri pasta, with pancetta and pork sausage, with fennel seeds, slightly spicy, but certainly not too much.


We asked for a coffee to round it off, but were disappointed with the low quality of the coffee and the cappuccino that in this age of baristas did not even come close to a standard cappuccino, and would certainly not be served in Italy like that.

Restaurant Sud is definitely a very cosy place to spend lunch time. The owners are very friendly  and the food is definitely fresh and tasty, but I am afraid that 26 euro is overpriced for what you get. Or they have to upscale a bit on the decor and food, or lower the prices in accordance with what they serve.

Sud-Food of Italy, Mallebergplaats 5, Bruges 8000, Belgium, +32 50 344562


Few days more ambiguous than Valentine’s day. Created for consumerism, its intents thinly veiled as to make it a special day for your ‘cherie amour’. A cunning trap, Valentine’s day. Do nothing and you don’t care, go along and you are a materialist.

We dreaded booking a restaurant  for the event. The Valentine’s special was going to be overpriced and underinspired, with every dish smothered in symbolism and aphrodisiacs hiding in all corners. Surely shellfish, and  asparagus daringly positioned, something with ginger and champagne sauce and  specks of truffel oil. Who knows what else.

Instead, we drove to Ostend, had a refreshing walk on the beach, cooled off in the silty breeze and then warmed up again over strong Irish coffee. Here I was, with my Valentine sitting right in front of me, her cheeks glowing from the cold morning air and flush from the Jameson whisky. I know I am a lucky man.

The Saturday fresh market was in full swing and it was brisk business as usual at “Luk’s”, arguably one of the best fishmongers in Flanders.  We got some fresh Zealand Oysters and lovely seabass. We asked for the heads and bones, to make a stock, but Luk shook his head; “too fat”, he said. “I have something better for you”, he then smiled and pushed two kilo’s of filleted turbot and plaice in a bag for us. Nothing can beat plaice for making a great fish stock!

We bought ognions, leek, carrots and some sweet pepperoni’s from the fresh market and finished our shopping spree with a fantastic looking heartshaped valentine’s cake (with meringue cream and topped with raspberries.)

We drove home to cook our own Valentine’s dinner that evening. Far away from the city lights, with Jolan and Kathlyn’s jolly chatter for background music and with a bottle of Moutardier champagne to toast on each other’s company.  A quick calculation told us the meal had cost us approximately fifteen euro’s per person. Cheap when compared to the fifty something we would surely have spent in town. Cheap yet priceless. Every day again, and every day more than the last, I cherish the moments when I see the three people I love most on this earth so close to me.  And isn’t that what Valentine’s should be really about?

We finished the evening at the Bruges’ concert hall, where Jordi Saval slowly rocked us into a hypnotizing slumber with his old Celtic music, played on four-hundred year old instruments, a Gamba and a Celloviola. The wild party out, the table dancing, the glitter of limelight and the all night cocktails rave will be for another time.



Publiek – Gent


Yes, we did it again, we ate at a restaurant just before they where assigned a Michelin star, and on their way to stardom! We were spending a night in Gent again, and looking for a new place to eat. We wanted to try one of the new promising  restaurants with young chefs trained in three Michelin star restaurants. But as usual we only booked a few days in advance and most restaurants, especially the trending ones, were already fully booked. On the website of one of them I read that they always kept some tables for late deciders (like us), which could be booked by phone on the days itself from 10 AM on. Neil took responsibility for the reservation, so around 11 AM I received a text message that he had booked a table at Publiek in Gent, yes! Publiek is run by Olly Ceulenaere in the kitchen, one of the Flemish foodies. I find it a great idea to keep some tables that can be booked on the day itself. It gives everyone the possibility to try these restaurants, as many people cannot book very far in advance, and therefore miss out on some restaurants who are always fully booked months in advance. I hope they keep this policy as a Michelin star restaurant.


We had booked quite early in the evening, and when we arrived were told that we could take a table instead of the seats at the bar, which are I guess the seats often set aside for the late bookers. We were very happy, and sat down next to the wall adjacent the open kitchen. The restaurant, though very sober in decoration, had a very warm  and relaxed atmosphere. I think the lightning, the natural wooden touches and the open space are responsible for the ambiance. The personnel is very young and casually dressed.


We both chose the menu made up of five dishes (55 euro). You can opt for an extra dish, but we declined. We started with a glass of of Vouvray bubbles (8 euro/glass) followed two glasses of white Croatian wine, recommended by the hostess. The wine was really very good.



You first get some homemade bread with butter with herbs and nuts, beautifully served, and a real treat. Each dish looks really beautiful, is well balanced in its aromas, pure and honest in taste, with original sauces and a lot of fresh herbs. It is a blend of the pure authentic taste of quality ingredients and the flair of good combinations spiced up with fresh herbs.


You can choose between two deserts or a cheese platter. We each chose a different desert. I took a carrot cake which was delicious, Neil was a bit less pleased with his granité, which seemed to miss taste. He better go for the cheese platter next time.


It was a great dinner, worthy of the first Michelin star they received last month. Congratulations Publiek!

Publiek, Ham 39 – 9000 Gent +32 9 330 04 86

Chez Bene&Bolle

Today’s review is not about a fancy new gig in town or about a promising young culinary artist on his way to stardom. Today is a small reminiscing about a great evening among old friends. It has been many years since we had last met with Bene and Bolle, and they have made it a night to remember. To add to the harmony, our best friends Patrick and Hilde were also at the rendezvous.

Lounging in front of the fireplace we started effortlessly, cracking jokes,  sharing views, casually, as if we had last met just the other day.

And it goes to say that the most important ingredient of a successful night out is not the food nor the dress or the music, it is the company

Having said that, with great company, great food is often not far away 😃

And Bolle definitely did not disappoint. With Bene as a perfect host serving us delicious plate after delicious plate. I liked the idea of fresh oysters with passion fruit (a great marketing recipe for a love potion!) and I wonder why so few people know about the never failing delight of freshly baked crispy cheese wafers.

One of the gains of finding yourself among real friends is that few subjects are off limits. We had neither time nor intention to deep dive into heavy personal topics this particular evening but it is comforting to know that diverting opinions do exist, that they are allowed to exist, that they are respected and that there is willingness to explore one’s point of view.

Of course we talked about the events in Paris, the brutal killing of the Charlie Hebdo cartoonists, of the policemen and of the hostages at the supermarket. And of course we all condemned this barbary and there are no ‘buts’ to attenuate the circumstances. Yet, when all was said,  the one aspect I missed, not just in the evening’s  discussion, but in all I have  heard, read and seen in the various media,  was  a simple reflection, the question if we, if  our society, could have done something to prevent young  citizens, born and raised among us, homegrown children,  to get radicalised to the point of giving in to blind hatred and self destruction. The question has to be asked. And just like we, friends, try to understand each others point of view, why don’t we try to understand theirs? When Boku Haram in Nigeria kidnaps children and exterminates entire villages, we do frown, we do find it horrific, but then we shrug and get on with our lives. Only when it hits us at home, do we act. When a minute fraction of Boku Haram violence hits us close to where we live, we suddenly wake up and demand changes.  in my view, this attack did target Charlie Hebdo, but more than that, it targeted our Western society as a whole. Our response is now focused on repression when it actually should focus on better understanding and prevention. Unfortunately, that is  a type of language that did not seem to be lost to our current ruling politicians these faithful last few days.

On the other hand, the bouillabaisse, this particular evening,  was ‘to die for’ and when it was  followed by one of my all time favourites, a succulent roast of rabbit, any leftover resistance to restrain my calory intake was thrown overboard. Lucky too because just in time to accept several slices of  mocca and vanilla ice cake.

Hmm, somehow, after the terrorist paragraph talking about food suddenly sounds less appetising. But maybe it’s just me. I am not at peace with myself, I admit. I do feel a sense of guilt, being among the lucky few on this planet who can bathe in affluence. Even though I also feel that we deserved every bit of it, as we didn’t get it for free but through hard study and hard work. Even though I do acknowledge that our system has entrenched layers of solidarity and a well established safety net for our less talented or less fortunate co-citizens.  Yet, in spite of all of this,  I can not help to think that there is a lot of bias in our sense of ‘egality, fraternity and liberty’. It seems to me that somehow, some of us are still more equal than others.

So, let’s again raise our glass my friends! I praise myself lucky to live among you. You who are yourselves of sound mind and who, while sharing good wine, can uplift a nice and relaxing dinner into great and intelligent conversation. And isn’t that precisely what differentiates us from the other animals?

Your ultimate ski-holiday check-list


On our ski-holiday this year I realized I again forgot to take some essential items with me. Not as essential as my ski jacket or helmet. I took everything I basically needed to go ski every day, but I forgot a small back pack for instance, and really missed it almost daily. I therefore decided to write down the essential ski-holiday check list for next time, and why not share it with others, who might need it too!


Your ski outfit:


-Skijacket -Skipants -Skisocks -Sleeveless shirt or top -Underfleece sweater -Upper fleece sweater -Gloves or mits -Undergloves (with touchscreen tips if you want to use your smartphone when skiing) -Helmet (do wear one, it is just a sad way to die while skiing) -Scarf -Fleece neck warmer (to pull over your underface when very windy) -Ski hat (there are very thin hats which you can wear under your helmet for extra warmth) -Ski goggles (do not underestimate the strenght of the winter sun, also essential when it snows) -skis or snowboard -skishoes -ski sticks

If it is very cold you can wear following items for extra insulation:


-shirt with short or long sleeves as extra layer -thicker socks (do not wear two pear of socks!) -panties to wear under your skipants

Accessories you need on your holiday:

-sunglasses -regular gloves -regular hat -snowboots of sturdy walking shoes or moonboots -regular scarf (it might seem dum to take two pairs of hats, scarfs and gloves, but the ones you use for skiing are often sweaty or wet, so it is comfortable to be able to change them for others at the end of your ski-day) -umbrella (where it can snow it can rain…)

For your days on the slopes:


Ski-pass In some ski-areas you can re-use your ski-pass (and not have to pay for it again). So keep it somewhere where you will find it- again next year.

-a small or medium backpack (to take lunch, water, sunscreen, put away carfs, sunglasses…) -small thermos flask -some sandwich bags to pack lunch -a pocket knife. On very busy and sunny days you might prefer to eat your lunch outside on te slopes in the sun, rather than to wait for a table at one of the restaurants on the slopes for a much too expensive lunch.

-sunscreen, and an extra small tube of sunscreen to take with you on the slopes -one lipbalm per person -packs of disposable handkerchiefs


-a plastic sheet to put in the trunk of your car to put the wet skis and boots on after skiing, snow chains (do put them on at home at least once, so that you are familiar with how it works. Most often you have to put them on when it is dark, in the snow, in cold weather ….), and you can take some old gloves and an old sweater with you to put on your chains, because it is often a very dirty job!

-a credit card: when renting skis the shop often asks a credit card as guarantee, and it might come in handy at other times too! -your social security number and/or assurance cards

-telephone numbers of close family members

first aid kit: -plasters -disinfection spray -wound healing cream -ointment for burns -after sun cream -facial cream (the cold dehydrates your skin) -painkillers -thermometer -other medication you regularly take.

-If you wear contact lenses: spare contact lenses and/or glasses, fluids and holders for your contact lenses

-cords and chargers for phones, computers and tablets

If you rent an apartment or chalet these are some useful items you should take:


-Take the address and telephone number of your destination with you in the car in an easy to reach spot (do not pack it in your suitcase).

-Breakfast for the first morning (you usually arrive late in the evening): coffee, coffee filters, tea, breakfast cereal or muesli, milk, sugar, jam, chocolate spread, chocolate milk powder -cookies

-garbage bags -washing up liquid -dish washing sponge -toilet paper!! -handkerchiefs -paper towels -salt and pepper -fondue fuel cartridge (if the place has a fondue set) -reusable supermarket bags -kitchen towels -dish washing gloves (if you use them) -some bottles of wine of champagne

Toiletries and cosmetics:


If you rent an apartment or chalet you should bring -shower gel -soap -shampoo -hair dryer -toothbrush -toothpaste -bath and hand towels -bed linnen -earplugs (against noisy neighbours) (all other personal toiletries you need)

-Books to read (or download them on your tablet) -download some films on your tablet or computer for the evenings (films you always wanted to see but never got around to)

For the car trip to your destination:


-You are not the only one who goes skiing in the holidays, traffic tends to get really bad on these days, and if you are unlucky and the weather turns bad, who knows how long your trip will be: So pack enough food and drinks to cover one or two meals, with some extra fruit and cookies to munch. Gas stations are often terribly crowded on busy days during the holidays, so you can eat in the car instead of standing in an endless row for something to eat or drink. And if you are as unlucky as some during these last holidays and you get stuck in a huge traffic jam, you will be so grateful you packed food.

-For the same reason do not wait until your gas tank is almost empty before filling up, if you get stuck somewhere you do not want to run out of gas!


Enjoy the snow!